We headed out of Sakura Ryokan. Three of us stayed there and by the time we reached the beginning of the trail up to Temple 12 we were once again a group of five. Masashi San (the walking machine), Inaba San, Hara San, Tachikawa San and myself.
About 500 meters from Sakura Ryokan an older gentleman on a bicycle spotted us and stopped to give us Osettai (gifts to Henro). He gave each of us a raw chicken egg. (Under no circumstances are you to refuse Osettai). This caused no end of mirth from my compadres who continued to ask me how my egg was doing as we scaled the mountain. Regardless, it was a kind gift and I carried it in my pouch like a mother hen (or kangaroo in this case).
The going was very tough. 16km of Switchbacks and sometimes straight up the hillside. Much of the trail was still soaked from yesterday and had large ruts in it from the rivulets that must have been cascading down it. I am grateful I didn't chose to climb it yesterday. As it was, there were times when my breath was so ragged that I didn't think I could go on. Other times when my legs and back were screaming in pain and even times when all three combined to beat the resolve out of me.
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| Rough looking crew or what? | One of the many beautiful vistas climbing to T12 |
Fortunately, Masashi San was there. At 70 years old he was having a hard time. Helping and encouraging him kept me from focusing on my own pains. Masashi San didn't buy a tsue. He said it was too much trouble (jama) to carry around. Except up and down mountains that is. So we had a joke going where I would ask him to hold mine for me, he would kindly do so and then use it to go up the trail. Once we were on a flat stretch (very few on this day) he would hand it back and I would say thank you for holding it for me. This kept it low key so as not to embarass him. He may well have been doing the same thing, allowing me to help him because he knew it was important to me. Either way, we all gratefully made it to the top.
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| The last "few" steps to Shouzanji (T12) |
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| Fellow henros taking a break at the top. Masashi San Left and Inaba San right. |
I was staying at ShouZanji, but the others were traveling about 4 km more. So I said goodbye to them for now. They said they would wait for me at the crossroads until 8:AM. I said there was no need to, but I appreciated the offer none the less.
I felt a little better after settling into my room. I did my laundry and hung them up to dry. Well, actually the Kamisan did my laundry for me after she saw me washing it by hand in a sink. This was to be a pattern for me. To not be able to find and/or use the laundry machine and have to ask someone to help me. You would think I would learn after the tenth or eleventh time, but no. There is obviously some kind of mental block at work here.
I then walked around the temple area to look for things that I may have missed earlier. What I found was a trail leading to the top of the mountain. So, feeling genki with my backpack off, I decided to climb the remaining 138 meters to the top. (Why climb only 90% of a mountain?) The trail was in good shape. It was getting dark by the time I reached the top so I didn't hang too long. Although, I took a moment to appreciate a sense of accomplishment and take in the surrounding beauty. I then hurried back down the mountain to avoid getting lost in the dark. I felt 15 again, racing along the fireroads in the Pope & Talbot forest lands of the Kitsap Peninsula.
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| Shrine at the top of ShouZanJi Mountain; elevation 938m. |
I briefly met a couple that I would walk with off and on over the next couple of weeks. An American named Rob and his Japanese wife Satomi. They live in Kirkland, WA just 50 miles or so from my home in Gig Harbor, WA. Like myself and several other henro I met, Rob was in a career transition and took the opportunity to do the pilgrimage. (They had done at least part of it in the past.) By the way, I felt fortunate that my wife agreed to let me go on this pilgrimage, but I couldn't imagine her actually going with me. Therefore, I really admire Satomi for going with Rob. I'm sure she has her own reasons for going, but I can't help thinking that the main reason is to keep Rob from getting lost and/or falling in a hole somewhere.
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| Rob and Satomi the "Super Genki" couple |
Thought for the day
© Copyright 2006 James Knighten
