March 6, 2008 - Lost and Footsore in Matsuyama
Caught the 7:40AM train back to Kume. Much of this morning was a blur perhaps because I was somewhat hungover from the rich food and espresso I had the night before. I can't say that I remember much from this portion of the trip.
The walk to HanTaJi (T50) was quick. HanTaJi was very open and flat with new shrines and a large courtyard. I liked the linear layout of the Hondo (main shrine) and DaishiDo (shrine to the Kobo Daishi). There was a third shrine I noticed, but I had no clue as to what it was for. I took a photo of it hoping Rob and Satomi might know what it is. They don't but we all agree it must mean something to the locals.
The trip to IshiTeJi (T51) was short but less pleasant. I was walking into the city and I miss Henro markers when the streets become too busy.
IshiTeJi was like a bazaar more than a temple. When I first entered from the street I thought I was entering the main gate, but no. I was entering the small lane lined with souvenir booths that led to the main gate. After negotiating this gauntlet, I entered the main temple yard. It seemed more like a carnival than a temple. Apparently this was the last week of school so the temple (nay, the whole city) was crawling with students on field trips.
Beyond the main yard there was a Hindu shrine that I thought was cool. I climbed up onto it's back stairs to get a photo of its roof up close. On the hillside behind it there was an abandoned shrine up on cement supports, but its bright read wood facade looked wrecked from rot.
In the far corner were hundreds of Mizuko (miscarriage, abortion) stones. The statue of Jizo standing as guardian of the unborn children was quite profound. Walking the pilgrimage for my own trivial reasons, I often forget that many people come to these temples to be healed of severe wounds. At the Hondo, I prayed to God and Jizo to take care of the children and to give comfort and forgiveness where needed to their parents.
Looking at Map 54 in Miyazaki San's map book, I knew the way to TaiSanJi (T52) was going to be difficult. Multiple routes through busy city streets and to make matters worse all the local schools emptied their students into the mix. So I did what I always do, started asking for directions early and often.
I saw some landscapers working near the far end of the temple grounds. I caught just a glimpse of the outline of one of the landscapers and I knew immediately that he was a foreigner. I didn't have to see his face to know. The way he stood and moved singled him out as a westerner to me. I once read a book by James Dickey titled To The White Sea about an American airman who survives a plane crash in Tokyo during WWII. Wearing a hat down over his face he proceeds to walk to Tohoku unnoticed. I'm not saying that a westerner can't learn how to ape the movements of a Japanese person, but it takes more than covering your face to go unnoticed even in a crowd.
I digress. As I approached the group one Japanese gardener saw me coming and tapped his coworker on the arm. Sure enough when he turned around I was looking at a blue eyed guy with a blond beard. I immediately started yammering about how to get to the next temple when I noticed he had an accent. I asked him where he was from and he said "Germany" (which is English for Deutschland). What an amazing person, he spoke Japanese, German and English fluently and he was in Japan studying gardening (by working like a dog by the looks of his clothes and hands). Anyway, he gave me what turned out to be pretty good directions to the next point of getting lost.
I spent twice as much time and four times more effort than required to get to TaiSanJi. I spent much of the afternoon dodging school children and vehicles while trying to spot Henro signs. Just when I thought I was on one path, I would invariably see a landmark that convinced me I was on another. I probably walked the maximum distance a Henro can walk and not go off the map completely.
Along this route I heard "ato ni kiro" twice more. Each time I just smiled and continued on my way. Not expecting it to be true and it wasn't in either case. Regardless the people were cheerful and as helpful as they could be.
The last two kilometers were hell for me. My feet were sore and my right shoulder was a wreck. I was able to block the pain but it made me less responsive to my environment. I almost walked past TaiSanJi's main gate. I was reading the Kanji, but I couldn't form the words in my mind. So I stood there staring at it as other Henro walked past me to enter the gate. I have no idea how long I stood there. It seemed like a long time, but may have only been seconds. Suddenly the spell was broken and I entered.
I was in awe of this temple because of it's age. The main shrine is 1300 years old and still standing. The architecture and materials used must be an anthropologist's dream come true. Just the fact that it survived all the wars and fires over the centuries is a miracle in itself. I wonder how many hopes, dreams and sorrows have been cast at its threshold.
I hesitated to stay too long at TaiSanJi because I wanted to get to the next temple and then to the Minshuku Shikoku (M55.5) before dinner. So off I went to EnMyouJi (T53).
EnMyouJi was a small temple with the HonDo and DaishiDo right next to each other. I don't think there was even enough room to add a garden to make it seem bigger. In some ways these smaller temples seem more spiritual. Again this is my opinion only, but the grander and more ornate a temple is the harder it is for me to connect with God. For example when I visited Notre Dame in Paris. I'm sure hundreds of thousands if not millions of people have had profound spiritual experiences there, but me, I got nothing.
It was getting late, my stomach was grumbling about as much as my feet and shoulder. I headed to towards Minshuku Shikoku. I could smell the salt in the air. I was getting closer to the sea. The day was slightly overcast and breezy. I have nothing against a sunny day at the beach, but to me the grays and greens of a cloudy day at the beach are very cozey.
I arrived at the Minshuku just in time to take a nice hot bath. Again this bath wasn't fancy but it was piping hot. Five minutes and I was beet red and sweating. Back to the room and to a decent dinner. The inn keeper did my laundry for me and only charged me 100 yen ($1). She seemed almost apologetic when she told it would cost extra. I told her it was a good price for a great service. I think I actually used the word "bargain" which made her smile.
By the way, this woman who was about 4'8" and maybe 90 lbs hefted a kerosene heater onto her shoulder at the top of a steep set of stairs and proceeded to walk down them. I immediately wanted to help her, but if I had tried it may have actually caused her to tumble down the stairs. So I just stood there hoping for the best and wondering if my Japanese was good enough to give a statement to the cops or would they have to bring an interpreter in.
I had dinner with an older Henro who barely ate any of his food. I kept dropping hints that I would be happy to finish his meal if he was unable to. He was either oblivious or unwilling so I had to walk away from the table looking mournfully at untouched sushi and pan fried fish. What a shame.
My wife Hiroko was coming down from Tokyo the next day to meet me at Kikuma station around 3PM. It was only 12 km away so I had plenty of time to get there before then. I wasn't sure how having her with me might affect my Henro experience. We're great friends and soulmates, but up until now I have had the Henro experience all to myself and wasn't sure if I could share it.
Thought for the day
"City walking for good or ill is part of the Henro experience. It is by no means my favorite kind of walk, but I'm sure it helps me to appreciate the walks I do enjoy."