March 9, 2008 - Mori Bye Bye
Got up early and had a great breakfast. I begged for more of the coffee and the Kamisan delivered.
As we were leaving the owners asked us where we were staying that evening. We told them that Haruki and Kazuki were headed back to Tokyo but Hiroko and I were pushing on and hadn't really decided yet. We were in a bit of a bind because we wanted to get as far as possible that day so that we were in a good position to complete the next day's hike (more details later). However the inns on the map (62) were either too near making the next day's hike too long or too far making this day's hike too long.
The owner of course already had something in mind when she asked her question. She knew a man and wife who occasionally open their home to Henros. A single room with bath and meals. The place was located about 9 km past Temple 59 which made both days' hikes equal at 24 km. So we called the Kusunokian from the genkan and they said they can accomodate us that evening. The owner lady seemed very pleased. She obviously had some affection for the couple. Actually she seemed to generally have a lot of spare affection to pass around.
We hit TaiSanJi (T56), EiFukuJi (T57) and SenYuuJi (T59) in rapid succession. We were having such a good time walking together that other than having a chance to stop and rest the temples didn't leave much of an impression on me. This was probably the result of travelling with family instead of traveling alone.
Between T56 and T57 we did see an interesting thing. It was a retirement home that had a cemetery in the front yard. I would think it would be depressing to stare out your window each day at the place where you're just counting the days to retire to for eternity. On the other hand you can take comfort in knowing that those who come after you will have a special interest in making sure the cemetery is well taken care of. Either way it still doesn't seem right to combine the two.
Shortly after leaving T57 an elderly woman came out from her yard and gave me 100 yen as osettai. The cool part was she walked right past Haruki and directly to me. She recognized me as the Henro and Haruki as the tourist in spite of my un-Japanese-ness. (I don't think I'll ever get tired of bringing this story up around Haruki.)
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| The hat and the Daishi stick transcend race and culture. See, we're just like twins! |
Hiroko jinxed us on the way up to SanYuuJi (T58). We were walking up a hill when she saw the roof of a building ahead. She started celebrating... but I warned her not to celebrate too soon. Sure enough, the roof was to a gate that was at the beginning of a long walk up a steep path. Jinxed!
After that she was sure not to celebrate until we were standing in the temple yard.
The time came when we had to say goodbye to Haruki and Kazuki. It was a pleasure to walk with them. I can't believe it had been almost two years since the last time. I hope we don't wait so long for the next.
After the Mori's train left Hiroko and I continued our journey to KokuBunJi (T59) and then to the Kusunokian. All told another 10 or 11 kilometers. The good news is it didn't start raining before we reached KokuBunJi. The bad news is it started raining before we left KokuBunJi.
Being a genuine Worshitonian I don't mind the rain and was well prepared with my poncho. Hiroko on the other hand wasn't as pleased as I was. She did bring a small umbrella which kept the rain off her hair and shoulders but little else.
Fortunately it really didn't start to come down until we reached our rendezvous point with the owner of the Kusunokian. In the five minutes that we waited it came down in buckets. Even with our umbrella and poncho we were getting pounded. In the brief moments it took to get into his car both he and his upholstery were drenched. He didn't seem to mind but we were apologetic as if we somehow caused the rain.
The Kusunokian wasn't actually the inn keeper's home. His home was in the town we stayed the night before. The Kusunokian was a rental that he and his wife were devoted to remodeling as a ryokan. He had completed the Pilgrimage many times and wanted to give something back to other Henro. He and his wife certainly accomplished that in our case.
The room and ofuro were great but it was the food that overwhelmed us. It was the most I had ever eaten at an inn. The photo of Hiroko at table was just the first course. The owner's lovely wife also brought us tempura and ton-katsu. It was the first time I had not been able to finish my meal (and Hiroko's too).
I would highly recommend this ryokan if you can catch it open. It is approximately at Km marker 9.0k on Map 62 of Miyazaki San's map book. The phone number is 089-66-4355 and cell is 090-4332-1971. The cost was 6000 yen in March of 2008. The meal alone was worth that much.
My shoulder was finally easing up a little. No unbearable pain before going to sleep. Hiroko was hurting though. Her left shoulder has always given her trouble as well as the top of her feet. Everybody's got something I suppose. However, whatever it is seems to go away after the first week or so of walking the pilgrimage. This confirms what my dad has always said, most of the physical problems we have are the result of sitting on our asses (I'm sitting on mine as I'm typing this...up yours Pops).
Thought for the day
"Trust in the Daishi. He found us a place to stay when we needed it."
March 10, 2008 - Hiroko Earns Her Wings
The night before the owner's lovely wife asked us what time we wanted breakfast. I said 6:30, her face became flustered and embarrased. It was such an honest and telling reaction that I immediately asked her what time was convenient for her. We then agreed that 7:AM would be best.
After breakfast we discussed our travel plans with the owner, an experienced Henro himself. He suggested that he take our backpacks ahead to the next Ryokan while we carry on from the pickup point with a light daypack. This sounded great to us. We thanked him profusely.
He drove us back to the pickup point. Hiroko then realized that she had forgotten something in her pack. Fortunately we had to pass back by the Kusunokian on our way to YokoMiNeJi (T60). When we stopped by I shouted "TaDaiMa" which means "I'm home" from the genkan (I'm such a card). They came out and we talked a little more while Hiroko got her forgotten item. We thanked them again and headed on our way.
Our plan for the day. We reserved a room at the Business Ryokan Komatsu (M64.9). We would try to get to highway 11, about 9 km from the Temple, before noon. If we accomplished that and were in good shape we would attempt to make it to YokoMiNeJi and then button hook back around another 10 km to the Ryokan. All told about 30 km for the day.
Because there were no accommodations from highway 11 until the trail looped back around, it was an all or nothing proposition. We were leaving the following day so if we reached highway 11 too late or we were hurting too much we would have to abandon YokoMiNeJi altogether for this trip. Might as well head into town and spend the afternoon and next morning as tourists.
Fortunately we reached highway 11 well before noon. We stopped for a snack to discuss our next steps. From where we were to the temple, the change in elevation was about 2200 ft over 5 miles of switchback trails. Although not as difficult as ShouSanJi (T12) it was still a tough hike.
During the walk to highway 11 I had decided that I was going to YokoMiNeJi and back around. Hiroko was still undecided. I told her that she was not obligated to go. I was the Henro and besides this whole thing was my crazy idea anyway. That being said I then urged Hiroko to walk with me. I told her that you can't really appreciate the Henro experience until you've reached that point where your body and emotions are near collapse, but you keep going anyway. When you finally step into the temple yard you feel like you've truly accomplished something. It digs deep the Henro's well of experience (as Kahlil Gibran might say).
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| "Don't speak to me." |
For eighteen years I've been talking her into doing things that she instinctively knows are crazy and this was no exception. She was in.
Although I got some glares from her later in the hike. She walked it without complaint. When she reached the top of the stairs I think she was more overcome with remorse than triumph. She told me that she could only think of having to walk all the way back down. Who thinks like that?
This being one of the highest temples in the pilgrimage. It was freezing so I hurried to say my prayers and get my Nokyocho signed.
Afterwards we walked down the backside of the mountain. However, judging by the cars and buses parked on that side I think we walked up the backside and were now going down the frontside.
We were following Miyazaki San's map book (M64 far left). But the trail markers were saying we had fewer kilometers to walk so wanting to believe them instead of the map book I put my hopes in the trail markers.
A bit of advice, if you want to avoid disappointment and it's resultant ills (anger, self-loathing and whiney-bitchism) don't believe the trail markers. Stick with the map book. It's not always right, but it's never so wrong that you want to throw something (or someone).
After learning our lesson the hard way we finally exited the trail. Unfortunately not early enough to reach KoOnJi before they closed. So we walked straight to the Business Ryokan Komatsu in time for supper.
The folks who owned the ryokan were members of a wealthy local family. They owned the ryokan, a meat shop and a real estate agency. In fact the Kusunokian owner delivered our backpacks not to the ryokan but rather to the meat shop. So we were in there.
The dinner was excellent with loads of meat (of course). There were other Henro like us but there were local salesman and friends as well in the dining/kitchen area. The owner was a lively older woman who definitely knew how to manage everything going on around her with good humor and an air of command.
After dinner we ducked out to buy some chocolate at the local conveni store. When we returned Hiroko began a late night battle with the dryer. She was very concerned that our clothes weren't going to be dry for the next day. At least that's what she told me, I slept like a baby through the whole drama.
Thought for the day
"I'm very grateful to have Hiroko. On the surface she appears to be soft and gentle (which she is) but underneath she is rock hard."